Hiking - Feast of the Senses

Hiking down the old L'Esperance Road is a treat for all five senses

by Debbie Hime

I've always been a bit cautious when someone asks me what my favorite trail on St. John is. There are so many details and unique nuances that make each trail special. But this issue's five senses theme easily fit one of my favorite trails on the island, and I knew immediately that I would be sharing the L'Esperance trail with you.

Since this trail was actually the road to Reef Bay and beyond at one time, it is wider and the incline much more gradual than many of the hiking trails on St. John. Thus, it's an easy hike and feels very comfortable to hikers of nearly any age or physical ability. Plus, it's mostly shaded by mature trees the whole way, so just about any time of the day is good on this trail.

There is much to see on this trail. There are two sets of recently cleared estate ruins, each having its own distinctive character and sights. The first is the L'Esperance Estate, which has a grave in the back with quite a large tree growing out of it. The second estate, Estate Sieben (previously known as the place where "herbal treats" were grown in the ‘70s, so the stories go), is also the location of the (supposedly) only baobab tree on St. John. If you look at the backside of the tree, there is a huge beehive which is usually swarming with thousands of bees. The beehive would have been the hearing sense, but the bees weren't there when we went; in the past, you could hear their "bbbzzzzzzzzzz" from many yards away. Also, the view just past the baobab tree is one of the best views on the trail, looking out over Fish Bay and other south shore views.

Back to hearing - the best part about the sound on this trail is the lack of it, except for the wind swirling by, a few birds chirping overhead, or a soldier crab scampering

away - and it's quite empowering to have nothing but the sounds of the earth in your ears.

And as for taste, L'Esperance boasts many genip trees and at least one very mature mango tree right on the trail. If you'd like to pick your own lunch while hiking, plan your hike around mango season!

One of my favorite stops on this trail is a few yards before the trail narrows at the Mollendal Ghut; you can't miss the smell of the bay rum tree forest (not just one or two trees!) on the left (north) side of the trail. Just walking a few yards into this area will leave you with little doubt as to why St. John's bay rum products have been so desirable for so many years.

Recently, we hiked just down to the Mollendal Ghut and back up to Centerline, and it took us two hours going down and about an hour back to Centerline for a total of almost three hours. I've also run this part of the trail round-trip in about one and a half hours (I'm slow, always careful of ankle twists). For a longer hike, though, the L'Esperance trail does continue all the way down to join up with the Reef Bay Trail. So, give yourself plenty of time to adventure and explore all of the sites down to the ghut and beyond - your senses will thank you!

D

Debbie Hime has lived in the Caribbean off and on since '89 (on St. John for seven years) and is an avid "fair weather" hiker and trail runner. Contact her at debbie@savantmediagroup.com.

HIKE DETAILS

Difficulty: Easy-Moderate

Distance: roughly 2 miles to Mollendal Ghut

Elevation: about 400 feet

Location: Right-hand side of Centerline Rd., a few curves past the VI National Park sign at Catherineberg

February 2010